Wedding Dress Fabric Options and Styles

When it comes to deciding on and choosing the perfect wedding dress for a bride there are several factors that need to be considered: namely the neckline, dress cut and the fabric. Every bride needs to understand these three elements in order to create or find the ideal dress to wear on her wedding day. Whether a bride is having her dress made for her or planning on buying off the rack and alterations, with fabrics used in wedding dresses it is important to know which fabrics are which and how they will sit on her figure including the heaviness of the fabric, its weave, drape and comfort level. Firstly, the most common fabrics used in the bridal industry are Satin, Silk, Lace and Embroidered with many dresses using one or all of these fabrics, yet within these categories there are different kinds of fabrics based on the quality and detail of the material.

Satin - satin is classed by its high gloss finish and heavy weave while it can be produced in various different styles and is ideal for beading and embroidery. While technically speaking, silk is used to create satin (and most other fabrics); satin itself has various different weaves and is overall the more commonly used fabric in the bridal industry with the most popular forms being:

1. Bridal Satin (aka Duchess Satin or Delustred Satin) is the most common form of satin fabric that is used in bridal gowns due to its high gloss sheen and heavy weight, adding an ideal feel to any bridal gown. That being said, bridal satin is better suited to larger formal gowns as opposed to those that skim the figure as it cannot 'fall' the way other fabrics can, due to its weight meaning it needs to be supported with petticoats or a bodice.
2. Crepe Satin is similar to bridal stain except that it is a lighter fabric that is easier to mould to a woman's figure while also having that shine of the heavy satin option. Crepe de Chine is an even lighter version of this fabric with the same level of shine.
3. Chameuse Satin is much like crepe stain in that it is a lighter fabric that can drape well across the figure and work with the angles of a bride's body shape although typically chameuse has a higher gloss to its finish
4. Double Sided Satin is heavier than crepe or chameuse due to its double sided shine, perfect for gowns that may have layers where the inner side of the fabric can be seen.

WEDDING INDUSTRY RULE OF THUMB: THE MORE EXPENISVE THE FABRIC, THE HIGHER THE QUALITY AND THE DURABILITY

Silk - used in the creation of most other fabrics including satin, organza and chiffon, silk is the most expensive yet most luxurious fabric available for wedding dresses as it is strong and durable while being soft and fairly easy to mould. Of course raw silk is no longer a feasible or popular choice of fabric for wedding dresses due to its rarity and thick texture that makes it virtually impossible to drape. Yet other forms of silk are highly popular with brides for their gowns due to its qualities including Shantang Silk and Mikado Silk.

Mikado silk is finely woven yet is far heavier than most kinds of silk while Shantang Silk is often used in wedding dresses as it can replicate the desirable imperfections of raw silk such as its weight and texture along with its ability to have a 'shot' look, for brides who want to introduce other colours into their gowns by having two threads used in one fabric. Similarly, there is Duponi Silk which is very similar to Shantang Silk yet slightly heavier again with thicker threads, meaning it can have a crushed impression, range of colours or embroidered for bodices.

Lace - worn as either the dominant fabric or merely as edging or a feature of a wedding dress, lace is a beautiful and delicate way of looking both romantic and feminine. However the grand rule of fabric that the higher the price of a fabric the better the quality is never truer than with lace, with lace ranging from minimal to highly expensive per square metre such as the French 'Chantilly Lace'. Chantilly Lace is a floral pattern with delicate mesh background, can be beaded and is an ideal lace to line with other colours, to emphasise the delicacy of the lace pattern.

Guipure Lace is the other main lace option which is a larger, heavier pattern than Chantilly which means it can be used to create a bodice, sleeves or a train due to its weight and durability. Made from cotton, this is a versatile fabric ideal for most wedding dresses.

Other popular lace options for bridal wear include:

• Alencon Lace - French needlepoint lace with a sheer background
• Battenberg Lace - has a satin backing
• Metallic Lace - uses metallic coloured treads to create a shine or classic edge
• Raschel Lace - best used in lace layers
• Stretch Lace - used for bodices or sleeves as can stretch

Other Popular Choices include:

Brocade - a fabric that is patterned with different colours and designs to create images and pictures and available in a variety of weights to suit either formal gowns or lighter, softer dresses

Chiffon - available in both silk chiffon and polyester chiffon, chiffon is mainly used in veils or as a light, transparent cover over the gown, adding shine and colour.

Georgette - similar to chiffon in that it is transparent with some available with a shine finish, this can be used as either part of the dress itself or the veil or a wrap to add colour or another effect.

Organza - similar qualities to chiffon and georgette, organza is transparent yet it is a stiff fabric that cannot usually be draped over the dress unless chosen in a silk version. Ideal for beading or embroidery.

Tulle - is often the most popular fabric for a veil due to its stiffness and ability to stand apart from the bride herself while holding beading. Tulle is also an excellent option as part of the petticoat or hoop that supports the frame of a larger gown with a full skirt.

Beading

When it comes to the beading on a wedding dress or any other features such as the veil or a wrap it is important to look into and consider certain factors to ensure quality work and an overall beautiful effect:

• Look into the quality of the beading, if the lines are straight and the beads are affixed well
• Bead quality will range from plastic to crystals with the price altering accordingly. With plastic beading keep in mind that they can melt if heated which is a major concern when dry cleaning while glass or crystals are not usually affected.
• If the dress is being made with beaded materials, be careful to order only the amount you will actually use as the cost of the material itself along with the additional charges of working with beading by a dressmaker can be high

For Australian wedding services and advice on wedding dresses, please visit our wedding dresses directory.